Børgefjell 2006

Photos below: Double click to enlarge

Oslo, 28.09.2006

Amigos,

Long time no write. I have been on another “expedition” and I would like to share my adventure with you before I go to the south of France one week from now, to stay for six months.
I spent two months this summer in my favourite mountain area, the Børgefjell National Park in the north central part of Norway. I started in the end of June and returned three weeks ago.
I had to go alone this time, too, because nobody I know is crazy enough to come with me to such an inaccessible place for such a long time. Fortunately, I can stand my own company.
A few time I met some interesting people, and it was a pleasure to talk to someone else than myself. At one point when I landed a big trout I said loudly to myself: “This is an adventure!”
I always carry a too heavy backpack when I start. Somewhere between 40 and 50 kg, and it is not a pleasure. At the end of the first day, halfway to my base, my legs curl up in a cramp and I have to spend a day to rest and recover. (I tend to forget that I’m not quite as strong as I was when I was younger) Then, after the first stretch, my legs are OK, and I can continue without problems. However, I must admit that when I finally arrived at my camp (where I stayed for two months) I was quite happy and I said to myself: “Thank you, High Powers, for allowing me to manage this.”
One for the riskiest parts of a trip like this is crossing rivers with the heavy backpack. This time it was not a problem at all, because it had rained less than normal.
In the evening of my first day, when I was in my tent at the intermediate camp I heard the sound of engines. It came from a helicopter and two motorcycles the Sami used to herd their reindeer. They came with their herd quite near my tent and I shot a few pictures. Because I think that the Sami’s motorized traffic in a protected national park is a scandal, I tipped our most respected national newspapers, the Aftenposten, and sent them the pictures when I returned to civilization after two weeks to make provisions. They ran a big article on this 18 July and it even led to a debate on national television. It turned out that this motorized traffic is illegal and I hope it will be stopped. It will take a long time before the ground will heal from all the motorcycle tracks.
As soon as I arrived at my base camp, I felt I was in paradise. Good fishing, great day trips in all directions. The day starts with a dip and a wash in the lake near the tent. During these eight weeks I ate trout for dinner in different variations all the time except on five occasions. Boiled, fried and cured. I also peel the boiled trout and put it in ready made soups. The two last weeks the cloudberries and blueberries were ripe, so I could make a delicious jam. The weather was good most of the time, except for a ten-day period with strong wind and rain. With my little radio, pocket pc and iPod (with audio books) I have no time to be bored. I spend a lot of time in the morning, having a good breakfast, drinking coffee and smoking my pipe, enjoying nature and thinking of everything or nothing at all, just letting time pass in a great peace of mind. In the tent, before going to sleep, I allow myself a taste of cognac.
In the beginning there were lots of mosquitoes, and they were a problem during three four days when I had lost my spray bottle of Autan insect repellent (bought in Brazil). I ate my meals and cleaned the fish with a mosquito net over my head and gloves on my hands. Later, after the spell of bad weather, the mosquitoes disappeared altogether and it was possible to walk around just in shorts.
After my little “expedition” I feel healthier and happier. And the trip is great for losing weight. This time 10-15 kg. In other words: A success. Next year I aim for six weeks in the same national park, Inch Allah, or Oxalá, as you say.

Packed and ready to go: